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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee well-known high-end venues. However, nestled high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has made the family completely surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their modest restaurant securing such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary achievement.